At 5:15, I groggily stumble into the pitch-dark bathroom down the hall with toothbrush in hand. Time for sunrise on the Salar.

It takes longer to rally everyone than expected, including Angel and Mercedes. I'm frustrated because last night when we asked to leave at 5:30, Angel implied that everyone always says that, and then they leave at 6 due to the tourists' dawdling. Yet at 5:30, the four of us are grumbling in the car, watching the other car pull away, watching Angel check his tire pressure. There's really no reason a group of 6 should be ready to go before a group of 4. We then race down the brilliant white expanse of the Salar, knowing we'd be stopping at a purely random spot on the stucco-textured lake to watch the sunrise, rather than at the beautifully crackled surface miles away.

After sunrise we join loads of tourists at the Isla de Pescado, so named because it's supposedly shaped like a fish. It's a cute place covered in cacti, with picnic tables made of salt, a free bathroom (very important!), and a bar/restaurant which isn't open in the mornings. After a wheezing climb to the top, we are rewarded with beautiful views of the famous Salar.

At this point of the Salar, the mountains are still visible. It's gorgeous and weird but not totally alien yet. I love having this portion on the last day...I still feel like there's more to look forward to.

After a simple breakfast, we run out to the Salar with the other group to take silly posed photos. Gilles and Sonia are probably off doing something more mature. I don't know why everyone takes these crazy poses on the Salar...is it really some sort of univeral idea, or is it just that someone did it once and now everyone wants to? It feels natural once there.

Our group is such a mess compared to the other one. While the other 6 finish taking photos, their guides efficiently pack up their car, so as soon as the group returns they leave. Meanwhile, we sit around wondering where Gilles and Sonia have gone. Mercedes starts cooking lunch ahead of time, then Gilles and Sonia come back, but Mercedes and Angel are now fiddling with something else.

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