I'd gotten the impression that Tewodros was a backpacker favorite and that December was peak season in Ethiopia; this didn't match up with the fact I was the only foreign tourist in the hotel. I was so glad I'd set my mind early on that I'd prefer private rooms for this trip, as the shared bathrooms I passed seemed to be used only by men and stank of bad aim.

Room #117 (one of the rooms recommended by Bradt) was on the second floor with views of the soccer field. Supposedly this 75 birr room also offered views of hyenas picking through the hotel's garbage, but I never saw them. The room had good light and air from the large windows, with a closet large enough for a long-term stay.

Sockets, plugs, and a shower. Excellent combo

The bathroom never had hot water, despite the young receptionist's slow explanation of how to turn on the heater and wait for the light to blink. The wall between my bathroom and the one next door didn't reach the ceiling, subjecting me to my neighbor's showering noises and unfortunately, the odors of his digestive issues.

Guma, the resident guide at Tewodros, was perfectly friendly but a little pushy. It's hard to fault him however, since I was the only foreign tourist and local guests might not need a guide. Still, I was a bit unnerved when he stopped by repeatedly, unasked, to see if I was ready to see the hyena feeding. No? How about now? Well, when, then?

Fried goat, yum!

As usual...a mess barely after arrival.

Tewodros' restaurant is one of the most popular in town, so I ate here twice to get a feel for it. While I saw occasional staffers in the hallways eating injera (generously inviting me to take a piece) and the restaurant certainly served classics like key wat, the dishes that I ordered happened to come with French bread. I knew I'd appreciate the baguettes after two weeks in Ethiopia, so I was in no rush to start in on injera.

Although the half-chicken was supposedly Tewodros' specialty, I found it a little dry and the side dish portions too large; it would have been quite a bargain for two people to share, at only 34 birr with a large bottle of water. Far tastier was the goat fried in butter, which went beautifully with the bread. Not the least bit tough as goat can sometimes be, it was a great deal at just 20 birr with a bottle of water.

Close to the bus station and just a few minutes from the main gate in Harar's city wall, Tewodros' location is fantastic. I would recommend anyone stay here while visiting Harar on a budget.

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