On my first trip to Turkey, I didn't feel the hospitality could ever compare to what I experienced in Syria; partly because I started in the Southeast, a region not particularly open to foreign tourists, and partly because I traveled alone. People basically had no real reason to approach unless attracted to me, and then generally I didn't feel comfortable talking to them anyway.

This trip to Istanbul was vastly different; warm welcomes were offered in often-shocking forms. On our first night April was feeling sick, so when we went to a bar she ordered only herbal tea. The very kind waiter—who professed embarrassment

April's helpful bar waiter

Jamie and Rubina pose with Hafiz Mustafa's clerk

at not speaking English while we apologized profusely for not speaking Turkish— gestured that they had run out of tea. Although April then decided not to order, our sweet waiter chose on his own to run to the restaurant across the street so she could have her tea.

Every restaurant's staff greeted us with questions of "where are you from? You like Istanbul?" We always gushed back that we adored Istanbul. All our conversations were overheard by people eager to join in.

The staff at stores like Gaziantep Baklavalari and Malatya Pazari treated us not as commercial prospects but as instant friends—often the proprieters seemed more interested in taking photos with us than making a sale, even seeming surprised when we indicated we actually planned to buy.

Strangers offered advice on their favorite places in Istanbul. When I inquired at a paper store about buying a simple notepad, the owner unearthed a tiny one and gestured it was free—then thanked me for taking it. And Askoç Hotel's staff could not have been more hospitable.

Rubina and April shop for scarves

We had a great group, which definitely makes a difference—whenever I was with either locals or foreigners-living-as-locals last year, I wasn't particularly noticeable. When alone, I was too noticeable. But this group was constantly chattering and laughing and so plainly loving every minute of being in Istanbul that people perked up as we passed, laughed along and wanted to become our friends. I never felt self-conscious or worried that men were only talking to me for one reason; even if they were I had 5 friends with me, what did I care? I couldn't have felt safer or happier.

At Suleymaniye mosque

Of course in Sultanahmet the experience is different; there tourists are targeted and people rarely let that unconditional kindness through. Thankfully apart from one day of straight sightseeing and our one trip to the Grand Bazaar, we were mostly out of that area. Everywhere else, people were less accustomed to seeing tourists and delighted to talk to us.

No one ever likes ending a good vacation, but Istanbul on this trip was particularly difficult to leave. Everyone felt loved by the city as a whole; we had been treated so well, all day every day, and as much as crowded, loud, pushy, fast-paced New York is our home, Istanbul had charmed us more than we could have imagined.

Kids spotted when coming down from Suleymaniye

Me and Patrick in Galata Tower

I was most surprised at how much passion I felt for the city—considering I had already returned in love last summer, so much that I wanted to live there! And yet, this trip managed to surpass the last.

No doubt part of the reason was that I finally had a good job, could afford to splash out a bit and really take advantage of the best of Istanbul, but I also traveled with an amazing crew eager to enjoy delicious meals, great shopping, and laughing until sick. This time I especially hated leaving Istanbul because the hospitality was over-the-top amazing—never felt sleazy, never felt false.

Headscarved women in the bakery

Istanbul is an amazing place to experience the Middle Eastern character—a modern city boasting sophisticated culture, world-class cuisine, reputation for beautiful architecture and fashion, yet retaining the same sense of kindness and generosity held by people I met in Egyptian desert villages. It almost physically hurts that it's too far and expensive a flight to go all the time—but I can reassure myself that I will definitely be back, and if this trip is any indication, it just gets better every time.

The New Mosque during a rare sunny moment

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