Our first destination in Bolivia was one of the least-touristed areas in a country already low in visitation. Parque Nacional de Torotoro is famed for its plentiful dinosaur tracks, beautiful colored mountains, and extensive caves. "Famed" is a bit of an exaggeration, however, as none of the travelers we met around Bolivia had ever heard of it.

El Canon, Torotoro

Torotoro's most famous set of tracks

They are definitely missing out. Less than 24 hours after arriving I was panting my way through a high-altitude cave. Each frigid night gave way to a brilliant blue-skied daytime warmth, perfect for hiking Torotoro's canyons. Clambering over boulders in dry riverbeds led to ancient rock paintings. I could barely move without tripping over another dino print. And the tiny town featured beautiful mountain views from every angle.

Umajalanta cave was the biggest highlight of the trip. I've never done any sort of caving before, and I was both amazed at the sights as well as my ability to finish the circuit! I don't think I would EVER do it again, but it was absolutely worth experiencing.

Most people on a limited trip in Bolivia will not have the opportunity to visit a truly rural town, so Torotoro itself was a highlight for me as well. What it lacks in creature comforts it makes up for in the charming setting and friendliness of its inhabitants.

Torotoro is not easy to reach, and depending on what you're trying to accomplish in Bolivia, may put you too far off the gringo trail to be sensible. But if you obsessively plan ahead like I did to work out all the possible routes—and I'm talking planes, trains AND automobiles—hey, no problem! It's a wonderful place I'll never forget.

Me posing with our car on the way to Torotoro

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