Dana Nature Reserve is not a common tourist site to foreigners OR Jordanians. Difficult to reach by public transport, you'll notice little traffic heading the same way. There were no highway signs coming from Wadi Rum; it's easier to spot directions coming from Amman, but Ahmad and I actually had to count minutes and kilometers to find our turnoffs. Check Ruth's website for information on getting to Dana.

After endless stretches of desert, a green mountainous landscape—that, for all the world, reminded me of the Andes—opened up before us. It was a surprise, to say the least, and I couldn't stop staring at the verdant, lush hills that appeared out of nowhere.

At the visitor center, I was charged J$7 to enter, and Ahmad was charged J$1. Typical. The receptionist/ park ranger offered us tea and cigarettes of course, and then told us the new price for camping was J$18 per tent. On Ahmad's recent visit, it was only J$7 per tent, so we politely refused.

To reach the Rummana campsite, we took the "shuttle bus," a wobbly, covered pickup truck. The steep road was one of the bumpiest, scariest roads I've ever ridden, my fear exacerbated by the open truck bed. Many switchbacks later, we arrived at the camp to soak up the scenery and melody of birdcalls.

We headed out for a short hike, and another park employee offered us tents at J$12 per person. No dice.

We followed the clearest path from the campsite, which in parts became steep and a little shaky for me with loose rocks coming off the trail. The views were breathtaking, at once rugged and rich. We came across a metal hut, which concealed a low bench and a narrow cutout for viewing a small pond. After we settled in, birds flocked down to drink while we watched on.

Dana is supposedly a wildlife reserve, but we only saw birds and numerous lizards. Nonetheless, the scenery and crisp air makes it worthwhile. On our return to the campsite, we were given a final offer of J$7 per tent. Being unmarried and admittedly only friends, we were not allowed to share a tent, making it J$7 per person. We regretfully declined.

The Rummana campsite is first-rate, with high-quality tents, a big common kitchen for campers to use, and fantastic showers and toilets. Dana is a wonderful area that deserves a few days to appreciate, and really captures the beauty of the Jordanian countryside. If you can afford to camp here, you will find endless hiking opportunities. Next time I visit Jordan, I definitely plan to pay for an overnight stay. I know there was much more to see. Until then, I can relive the moment I first saw the empty desert explode into abundant greenery.

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