After a wretched three days in Lebanon, I come running back to Syria.

It's a long day of travel getting to Hama from Beirut; I finally stumble into the Riad Hotel around midnight. Within an hour of meeting Abdullah, the manager, I reveal that my birthday is coming up and he promises a worthy celebration. Behind the desk, I check my e-mail while we watch a late-night showing of Mary Reilly and provide running commentary. Ah, Syria. How I've missed you.

I arrive so late that the shared room is locked and its occupant unwakeable. It's low season, so the other shared rooms are empty; Abdullah offers me a single instead for 225SYP. It's a great rate for sleeping alone, so I readily accept. The single room is a tiny box in the middle of the floor, so its only window actually opens to the hall. The ceiling fan keeps it from being too stuffy, and the in-room sink is a nice feature. I figure, it's small, but it's only $1 more than the shared room and it's all mine!

Later I discover the shared room is huge and sunny, with a bathroom, satellite TV and refrigerator...a much better bargain at 175SYP. But I am already settled (i.e., creating a mess), so I happily spend four peaceful days in Hama in my sardine-can room.

The shared bath is of the toilet-shower variety, which I've grown accustomed to. It's clean enough, but unsettling when a pink-haired guest takes a shower and sprays the toilet with dye.

Every morning Abdullah offers me delicious savory pastries from his own stash, as well as plenty of tea and cigarettes. He teaches me Arabic phrases, and is always eager to chat when I return in the evenings.

Hama is a sweet town, but primarily used by tourists as a base for day trips in the area. Riad Hotel offers many reasonably priced tours. Abdullah is very conscious of his guests' budgets, and does not push tours if there's not enough interest to lower the price. He offers me a fantastic deal for a day trip to Palmyra, and treats me to a lovely birthday day trip to Lattakia and the Qala'at Salah Ah-Din. He is also happy to help explain how to reach various destinations by public transportation.

Unfortunately, there are no ATMs in tiny Hama, and the banks do not exchange money. Strapped for Syrian cash and unable to wait until I get to Aleppo, Abdullah is able to change my Lebanese lira. The rate is pretty bad, but it's the only option. The staff is also happy to make small change, as large bills are hard to use when everything's so cheap.

Just like Damascus, Hama has two cheap, popular hotels right on the same block. I waffled until the last minute between the Riad and Cairo Hotel, but am happy with my choice. Cairo has a nice terrace, but Riad proves to be a better overall value. Highly recommended.

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