Of the five Middle Eastern countries I wandered through in the summer of 2005, Syria captured my imagination the most...and within hours captured my heart as well. Syria's overwhelmingly kind citizens, delightful food, and fascinating ruins combine to make this piece of the Cradle of Humanity more fun than I could have ever anticipated.

Umayyad Mosque, Damascus

I loved Syria so much that Turkey—a vacation destination with a well-deserved reputation for beauty, hospitality, and exotic flavor—paled in comparison for the first few days. I doubt I will experience a place like Syria again in my lifetime—even when I return. Syria amazed me during this trip, but next time I'll already know what to expect.

The airfare's not cheap, but on arrival the bargains are fantastic—exploring one of the world's oldest civilizations costs about $18/day. It makes a person eager to try all Dubya's most-maligned countries.

Palmyra's colonnaded street

Palmyra: There are probably more well-preserved ruins of the Roman Empire in any given Middle Eastern country than in Italy. Palmyra is Syria's must-see archeological site featuring massive columns and temples in a desert oasis. There are also camels. There are always camels.

Food, glorious food: While Syrian cuisine is not as varied as others, there are delicious treats to be had, from the cheapest street snacks to specialty kebabs to gooey ice cream. If you like Middle Eastern food, Syria does it up right.

The hospitality: Syrians exhibit warmth toward complete strangers at such an elevated level it feels like a put-on. The friendliness and generosity alone are reasons to visit Syria—it's amazing to see a place so uncorrupted, so full of trusting and trustworthy people.

Deir Mar Musa: Part of me hesitates to talk up the monastery at Mar Musa because I can't help thinking this special place would change drastically if overrun by tourists. At the same time, the monastery is so welcoming I can't imagine visitors leaving unaffected... no one would want to cheapen the experience. So go to Mar Musa, everyone—and definitely spend the night! It's a relaxing and unique way to take a little break from traveling and to learn about the monastery's work in the community.

<   previous      •      next   >