Be aware that you cannot enter Syria if there is any evidence you have been to Israel. I don't mean recently, I mean ever—good thing passports have a limited lifespan! In Israel, you can ask officials not to stamp your passport, but they aren't required to oblige! If you're stamp-free, you still need to hide other clues—souvenirs, currency, etc.

Bekdash, the most delicious ice cream in Syria! Located in the Damascus souk.

You MUST get your visa at home—and it's pricey ($100 for Americans). The only exception is if your country does not have diplomatic ties to Syria. You'll be waiting at the border for hours without a visa and can always be rejected. I met a few people who made it in eventually, but Americans shouldn't risk it.

Visas are not an issue at the Lebanese border. Here, you are issued one for $16. You can visit both countries on one trip by flying into Beirut and traveling overland to Syria.

Women should dress modestly throughout the Middle East. However, Syria is less conservative than other countries, and the friendliness is infectious. Don't go so far to avoid the loose-foreign-woman reputation that you miss out on the hospitality.

Don't forget your student ID—most sights cost a fraction for students.

Visa information about crossing from Lebanon may no longer be valid after 2005.

Getting Around

The absolute best method of transport is a honkin' big classic car—don't miss a day trip from Hama in one of these sexy beasts. Hama hotels employ vintage car-owners as drivers, so your trip to Krak des Chevaliers or Qala'at Salah Ah-Din will be conducted in style.

If Syria is part of your overland journey, it's easy to get in and out of surrounding countries by bus or service taxi.

Within Syria, the most common transportation is the bus—often cramped minibuses. Expect to wait until the bus is full before taking off.

Taxis are cheap, but occasionally you'll employ the "get out and shove money through window" technique to avoid argument. Taxis in Damascus and Aleppo should have meters, but you may need to prod the driver to turn it on—know the base rate in advance.

The main sections of interest in cities are quite walkable. Walking is the best way to experience Syria: when you're constantly stopped for tea while exploring ancient pathways, it's easy to spot Syria's charms.

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